Colombia & London: A Slice of Home Away From Home

Tales and tips from the Arab diaspora from Colombia to London

Rick Jordan

11 October 23

The Arab diaspora are one of the most prevalent immigrant populations around the world continues to successfully carve a life overseas while maintaining a strong attachment to home.

Whether it’s in Colombia, Australia or Europe, Arab communities have transported the essential feel of their native countries to keep the deep bond alive.

In this piece we delve into some historical background, and bookmark some of the best spots for Arabic culture across the world, starting with Barranquilla in the colourful south-American country of Colombia, and London’s funky Edgware Road.

Barranquilla, Colombia

You may never have heard of Barranquilla, but chances are you’ve heard of its most famous daughter – Shakira. South America seems a long way from the Middle East, but – like its European counterpart – the Arabic diaspora has deep roots here.

There are traces from the 14th century, when forcibly converted Moors from Al-Andalus were shipped to Spanish colonies on the continent, but the biggest wave landed between the late 19th century and the 1930s, when around 1.2 million Levantine people made their way here in search of economic prosperity. Many ended up in Brazil, Chile, and Argentina, but others found a new home in Colombia.

While not as beautiful as historical Cartagena to the south, it’s easy to see the appeal of Barranquilla. Its golden sand beaches are lapped by Caribbean waves including some of the best surf breaks in Colombia, and it has an easy-going lifestyle characterised by salsa spots and one of the biggest carnivals outside Rio de Janeiro.

“It’s a very outward-facing and cosmopolitan city,” says Jaime Abuabara Eljadue, a concert pianist and university professor of Palestinian descent. “That was the appeal for me. I’ve lived and worked in Bogota and Cartagena, but alwaysbeendrawntoBarranquilla.AlthoughCovidclosed the main Arabic cultural centre, there are many places for a coffee and many opportunities to connect with others of Palestinian heritage.”

After mentioning M Cocina Árabe and Pollos Arana 43 as some eateries run by Arabs, Jaime says he feels he is Colombian foremost, but is proud of his Palestinian ancestors, who found their way here during the first world war.

"I think the Arab people who came here are responsible for pushing the city forward over the years – it’s a city of opportunity for everyone,” he says.

Best places to eat

M Cocina Árabe for Arabic coffee, stuffed grape leaves, lamb pilaf, and beef empanadas
Pollos Arana 43 for fattoush, tabbouleh, shawarma, and beef kofta

Edgware Road, London

When the Atlas Lions – Morocco’s national football team – reached the semi-finals of the World Cup in 2022, there was only one place in London to watch the match. Edgware Road has been a diverse melting pot of north African and Middle Eastern cultures since the 1970s, and while Morocco didn’t reach the final, for one night everyone was united under a single flag.

Edgware Road is lined with shops and restaurants bearing Arabic and Kurdish signs, scented with the smell of shisha smoke, fresh shawarma, and sweet desserts. And while, in recent years, some entrepreneurs have moved to Park Royal in north-west London, this is still the liveliest destination for a day or evening out.

“As an Iraqi who moved to London from Paris in 2005 aged just six, I remember Edgware Road being one of the first places that felt like home despite the fact that I had yet to ever visit my ‘home,’” says Shamime Ibrahim, a London- based youth worker and beatboxer, who has performed at the Hollywood Bowl.

“If you want some old-school Iraqi uncle vibes where you can hear men sit and talk politics over tea, Sarchnar is the place to go. You’ll find kebabs on tanoor bread, lamb qoozi, and can even get a pacha and dolma but make sure you go on an empty stomach. You’ll probably get tea on the house and a few sweets that you shouldn’t refuse,” he says.

Shamime also mentions Hijazi Corner for those looking for some real good Yemeni and Saudi food and Patogh as a spot for Iranian cuisine, but believes Colbeh does a better koobideh.

“Freej Swaileh serves a high-quality majboos. As for shawarma, Cafe Helen is very well known, but there’s a great alternative called Ali Baba, where you can get Kurdish/Iraqi style shawarma,” Shamime says. “And if you’re looking for Levantine pistachio ice-cream, Diwan Damas Deli is the one, while for dhina, Abu Afif will satisfy that sweet tooth of yours. Lastly, Church Street Market is a must for people-watching and just about everything under the sun: electronics, Morocco football tops, those tiger-print duvets your mum packed in clear plastic...The whole area is a slice of SWANA home away from home.”